Bruning: Fashion allows people to cultivate cultural sensitivity

Jessica Bruning

Recently, cultural sensitivity has been a big topic at Iowa State, as I’m sure you’re all aware. Recent criticism of the well-known brand Rodarte has brought up another issue under this topic. Rodarte has come under fire for its use of aboriginal patterns, myths and stories as inspiration for its fall 2012 line.

Members of the U.N. and various indigenous rights groups cite cultural insensitivity. However, in Rodarte’s case, the brand actually licensed the aboriginal artwork it used for prints in the line. This means the artists will actually be receiving royalties for their work that inspired the patterns.

The Rodarte case is not one-of-a-kind; recently, Urban Outfitters came under fire for using the word Navajo in its line of Native American print inspired products and were then sued by the Navajo Nation. Multitudes of companies, including Nike and Urban Outfitters, have received criticism for their portrayal of the Irish in various products.

The federal Indian Arts and Crafts Act made it illegal for sellers to claim or suggest that a product is made by Native Americans when it is not. However, making a claim that a product is something it is not is obviously wrong. We as consumers are entitled to know if a product is an original or an imitation.

Fashion draws from cultures around the world for inspiration every day. Traditional prints, processes, colors, textiles and styling come from every corner of the world. In fact, there is an entire class taught on this topic here at Iowa State. TC 362: Cultural Perspectives in Dress allows students to discuss the cultural practices of people including Indian saris, Japanese kimonos, Muslim religious dress, Meskwaki ribbon work and Mayan textiles and their influences not only on their respective cultures but also on our own cultures and fashion industry.

Is inspiration something that can be limited? Should artists be told they are not allowed to use certain colors, patterns or traditions as inspiration for their medium? It is understandable for specific prints or designs that are the original creation of the artist to be off limits. But inspiration? There is a line between protecting a culture and completely infringing on an individual’s rights to create. I have no cultural connection to any Central American villages, but I still marvel and appreciate their amazing use of indigo and cochineal dyes.

The process of creating by artists is rarely one of disrespect or negativity. Instead, using cultures as inspiration usually stems from admiration and respect. Cultures with deep historical, religious and artistic histories are an amazing opportunity for both artists and students to broaden their own knowledge, perspectives and creativity.

The instant criticism Rodarte received was based on first impressions and people who didn’t take the time to find out all of the details on the creation of the line. Yes, if Rodarte had been trying to market the line as original aboriginal creations, it would run into some issues. But the simple act of drawing from a culture that is different from your own should be looked upon as a step in the right direction to more cultural sensitivity.

Cultures have used and traded art and techniques as long as they have been interacting with one another. We bring to each other our styles of dress, types of food, languages and many other aspects in the interest of learning, creating and understanding. Instead of making quick accusations of disrespect and insensitivity, we need to take the time to understand the process and intent of the artist. We are innocent until proven guilty, and when dealing with other cultures, we need to take this idea into consideration before making accusations that discourage the spread of knowledge, ideas and creation.