Fading into nothing
October 15, 2006
The banning of excessively thin models from the runway may have not reached fashion weeks in London or New York this season, but it is gaining momentum.
Two years ago, Adi Barkan, leading Israeli photographer and owner of the Barkan Modeling Agency in Tel Aviv, introduced a bill to the Israeli legislature that would require models to undergo health examinations and have their body mass index checked before entering the modeling profession.
The bill has recently passed a first reading in the legislature and could be ratified by the end of the year.
“The idea of a law seems slightly extreme, but some governing body should enforce some guidelines,” said Keila Tyner, graduate student in textiles and clothing.
Organizers in Milan took notice, although no action was taken, and Madrid was the only fashion week city to ban models with a BMI of less than 18.
BMI is a measurement of the relative percentages of fat and muscle mass in the human body. It has been used by health and medical professionals as a screening tool to identify possible weight problems for adults.
The formula is weight divided by height. A BMI of less than 18.5 is considered underweight, a BMI of more than 25 is considered overweight and a BMI of more than 30 is considered to be obese, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.
A person who is 5-feet 9-inches tall, for example, would have to weigh between 125 and 168 pounds to have a normal BMI.
Barkan said the average BMI among Israeli models is 14. He expects that once the proposed Israeli law is passed, all major fashion agencies will sign on.
Barkan wants secured commitments from firms that they will turn away models with a BMI of less than 18.
Since gaining popularity in Israel, Madrid and Milan, some think there could be a possibility of similar legislation being created in the United States.
“I think that [creating a law] is a good idea. This will force the body image of young women to be respected more,” said Shannon Nulle, senior in apparel merchandising, design and production.
Maranda Nichols, senior in apparel merchandising, design and production and model, agrees.
“I definitely think [creating a law is] a good idea,” Nichols said. “A lot of younger people are starting to think that [excessive skinniness] is the norm, and it shouldn’t be.”
The law would require all models to submit a nutritional test with a licensed nutritionist or dietitian every six months and agencies would be forbidden to represent a model without a copy of the test results.
“Athletes must be checked for drug and substance abuse, so why would this seem different?” Tyner said.
Tracking the size ban
The size ban of fashion models has gained momentum in recent months. Here is the most notable news that has affected major fashion shows.
Sept. 13 – In the first major ban on overly skinny models, Madrid’s regional government, which sponsors Madrid Fashion Week, used BMI to turn away 30 percent of the models during the week. Officials said they are obligated to portray healthy body images.
Sept. 16 – England Culture Secretary Tessa Jowell calls for banning “stick-thin” models from catwalks during London Fashion Week. The British Fashion Council, which runs the event, said it would not tell designers how to run their shows.
Sept. 19 – Indian Health Minister Anbumani Ramadoss said he disapproves waif-like models that don’t project an image of beauty and health. With osteoporisis from strict dieting a rampant problem in India, he gave his support to the Madrid ban.
Sept. 20 – Fashion photographer Adi Barkan allegedly secures commitments from firms that account for 60 percent of advertising volume in Israel to turn away models based on BMI.
Sept. 23 – Following on the heels of the Spanish government’s regulations, fashion capital Milan launches a new code during Milan Fashion Week that will start in February of next year. It will require models to carry a medical certificate showing they are healthy. Also, younger models will have to be accompanied by a tutor or guardian.