Rock talk
September 18, 2006
Interesting terminology
Barn-dooring
Swinging out from the wall like a door on a hinge.
Bucket
A large handhold.
Cut-loose
When a climber’s feet swing away from the rock on overhanging terrain, leaving the climber hanging only by his or her hands.
Dyno
A dynamic move to grab a hold that would otherwise be out of reach. Generally both feet will leave the rock face and return again once the target hold is caught.
Flash
To successfully and cleanly complete a climbing route on the first attempt.
Gripped
Scared. Also over-gripping the rock.
Gumby
An inexperienced or unsafe climber.
Nub
A little hold that only a few fingers or the tips of the toes can grip.
Pumped
To have such an accumulation of lactic acid in the forearm that forming even a basic grip becomes impossible.
Sewing machine leg
The involuntary vibration of one or both legs resulting from fatigue or panic. Also known as “Elvis Presley Syndrome,” or “Disco knee.”
Zipper fall
A fall in which each piece of protection fails in turn.
Equipment
Climbing shoes
A tight-fitting, thin shoe covered with a layer of vulcanized rubber to increase grip on climbing surfaces.
Carabiners
An aluminum loop with a sprung or screwed gate. Commonly used to attach ropes to fixed anchors or car keys to belt loops.
Climbing ropes
Made with kernmantle construction, which is an interior nylon protected by an exterior woven sheath. They are designed to stretch to absorb a falling climber. They are usually rated to withstand a certain number of falls. A rope should be retired when it shows a certain amount of damage.
Nuts
A metal wedge threaded on a wire, used for safe climbing by wedging the nut into a crack in the rock.
Helmets
Also known as “brain buckets,” they are especially useful in ice climbing and are commonly used to protect climbers from falling rocks and climbing equipment.
Chalk
Composed of magnesium carbonate and magnesium sulfate, which acts as a drying agent. Improves grip on the rock by drying perspiration.