AMUSE: ‘Broiler’ is a hot date spot

Tj Rushing

It may be out of the way, but unique fine-dining establishment The Broiler is an Ames institution. The restaurant, located at 6008 W. Lincoln Way, has been in business for more than 50 years, specializing in steaks, pasta and seafood.

The History

The Broiler was built by Bob McMahon, of Ames, in 1956. After a year, Bob moved to California and sold the restaurant to Harold and Gene Enquist. After another year, however, the restaurant was again sold, to Gene’s younger brother, Bill Enquist.

John Pfeffer was a cleanup worker for Bill, and worked his way up to head chef. In due time, Pfeffer became manager and a year after that he and his wife purchased the restaurant.

Unlike previous owners of the establishment, they stuck around and successfully ran the restaurant for 39 years before selling it to current owners Jerry and Darla Weeks. Jerry and Darla have owned The Broiler since May 1, 2004.

The Food

The Broiler immediately sets itself apart from other fine-dining restaurants. In baskets covered with white cloth, the restaurant serves not the usual bread, but biscuits served with butter, jelly and honey.

“The biscuits are our trademark from 50 years ago,” said Jerry Weeks, one of the restaurant’s owners. “They are handmade every day.”

One of the highlights of the restaurant’s menu is its prime rib, which is usually only served on Fridays and Saturdays. The restaurant specializes in meat, particularly beef and pork, and also features salmon that is raised in Carroll.

Unlike many restaurants, The Broiler does not offer mashed potatoes as a side dish. Instead, guests can order hash browns or french fries.

Also unlike many restaurants, during the growing season, The Broiler grows and picks its own garnish.

“Herbs for garnish are picked every day during the summer, when we’re able to pick it,” Darla said. “How many restaurants do you know that do that?”

The rest of the menu consists of a wide variety of foods, including salads and soup, steaks, sandwiches, chicken, pork, pasta, baked potato dinners and seafood. A full wine and drink menu is offered as well. However, meat is the restaurant’s forte.

“We pride ourselves on our meat,” Jerry said. “We get the other stuff because people come in groups.”

Dessert will also be offered at the end of every meal. The dessert tray that will be brought out by the server consists of a variety of cakes and cheesecakes. The star of the tray is the tuxedo cheesecake.

A complete listing of meals and details can be found at the restaurant’s Web site, www.thebroilerrestaurant.com.

The Atmosphere

The restaurant is segmented into five different parts. On the left, customers will find a small dining area, which features a five-person table on a wooden platform. Next to that room is a banquet room with a very large rectangular table suitable for at least 25 people.

Connected to the banquet room is a miniature greenhouse, which is very unique for a restaurant. The greenhouse is also a way for the past owner of The Broiler to stay involved with the restaurant.

“The owner before us was a gardener; it was his hobby,” Weeks said. “For us it’s just decoration though. The former owner lives right next door and still keeps it up.”

On the right of the restaurant, customers will find the bar. It is fully stocked, and patrons can get anything from Grey Goose to peppermint schnapps.

The bar features two half-circle booths at each corner of the front wall, a decent-sized TV and many small circular tables in between. Next to the bar is another dining area with booths rather than tables.

Parties can be held at the restaurant, and are encouraged. The Broiler holds a maximum of 175 people.

“We have parties here often,” Darla said, “but not often enough.”

With flowers and maroon cloth napkins on the tables, the overall ambiance in the restaurant is that of a comfortable, high-end establishment; a perfect place for a young college dude to take a young college gal to impress her, or vice versa.

The restaurant offers a little something for everyone. The menu items range from a $10 burger to a $33 for a whole pound of rib-eye steak.