European menswear gives us a glimpse of fall

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Courtesy of Totem Fashion

A model wears an ensemble by Korean designer Songzio during Paris Fashion Week.

Ian Laughead

We might be only just recently entering the dead of winter, but last week the trends for next fall were set in the capital cities of style.

Starting in London, the mood was clear: bold and brash are in. From Jonathan Saunders’ color blocked classics in teal, olive, and pink degrades to Christopher Raeburn’s sporty nylon jackets, each designer seemed to have something new and completely unique to say.

Up-and-comer J.W. Anderson stuck to what he does best — androgynous silhouettes that meander around and across the masculine/feminine divide. This season that means the most provocative and ridiculous: flouncy minidresses for men.

In Milan, Italy, revered fashion houses imagined lush collections with rich colors, like Frida Giannini’s opening look, a saturated air force blue overcoat followed by tweed everything else.

Dolce and Gabbana sent out a typically Sicilian-inspired set of clothes down the runway, sticking to religious themes digitally printed on billowy T-shirts. The excitement, however, was in a grouping of dinner jackets covered in deliciously colorful florals across the torso and up the sleeves.

Donatella Versace was nothing short of flamboyant this season, using a fleet of Adonis-type males to display suiting with super shoulders and lace boxers for underneath.

In Paris, Korean designer Songzio gave his dark style a lift with all-over printed turtlenecks and suits with motorcycle-style leather pants and jackets.

Juun J. took a turn for the playful in a series of garishly printed sweatshirts emblazoned with a practical zoo — parrots and octopi included.

The most anticipated show of the season was at Saint Laurent for designer Hedi Slimane’s debut collection for the company. Starting his career over a decade ago at the house, he transformed menswear with his skinny silhouettes in his tenure at Dior, and then moved to Los Angeles to pursue photography. Coming back to menswear, he re-established his rocker-chic identity in skintight ripped jeans with ermine coats and plaid shirts.