Small town restaurant draws big town crowd

Chad Snyder, of Ames, picks up pieces of buttered bread off the grill Wednesday at the Open Flame restaurant at 225 Main St. in Gilbert. The restaurant allows patrons to grill their own food. Photo: Laurel Scott/Iowa State Daily

Chad Snyder, of Ames, picks up pieces of buttered bread off the grill Wednesday at the Open Flame restaurant at 225 Main St. in Gilbert. The restaurant allows patrons to grill their own food. Photo: Laurel Scott/Iowa State Daily

Kyle Peterson —

The Open Flame, 125 Main St. in Gilbert, may not be like other small-town restaurants. In fact, it has been drawing fans from throughout the region and bringing them together to a town that, at last census, held fewer than 1,000 people.

“Our drawing range is probably 30 to 45 miles,” said Michelle Thompson, who owns the restaurant with her husband, Randy. “It’s not like your typical main street business that’s supported by just locals.”

That’s exactly what the couple had in mind when they started the restaurant in 1978. From growing up in the Gilbert area, they knew that the restaurant would need a unique draw to pull in patrons from the surrounding communities.

So in 1980 the couple put a 3-by-10-foot grill into the center of the dining room, and began allowing patrons to grill their own meals — a unique experience that has become the restaurant’s trademark.

Diners can choose from a case of hand-cut meats — including steak, chicken and kebab — step up to the grill, and char-broil their selection to perfection.

Of course, the restaurant will cook it for you if you want, but most patrons enjoy the activity.

“The grill-your-own has been a good unifier — kind of brings people together to do something,” Randy said.

As a result, the restaurant often serves as host for everything from awkward first dates to business lunches — anything where the activity is an appreciated conversation starter. The unique concept has won many fans and has helped The Open Flame establish itself as a trademark among area residents and visitors alike, Michelle said.“This is like part of everybody’s trip,”

Sometimes experiences are local, like the group of RAGBRAI riders who stop in every Wednesday night during summer training.

Other Open Flame fun is ISU related.

“There’s a lot of advantages with a college being that close by,” Randy said.

In addition to the many parents and students served, the restaurant also attracts its share of sports figures. Many of Iowa State’s visiting opponents stop by for post-game meals, and the restaurant counts former ISU coaches Tim Floyd and Johnny Majors as occasional guests.

Other patrons are international, brought to The Open Flame by their hosts to get a taste of Iowa cuisine. The restaurant often entertains Japanese, German and Italian guests, many times brought to Ames by Iowa State or companies like Barilla or Sauer-Danfoss.

“They bring in a lot of international guests, because the beef thing is kind of a depiction of Iowa,” Michelle said.

When the Barilla plant was being built, Randy said that many of the Italians working on the project frequented the restaurant.

“In their country they have a lot of small businesses. It reminds them, closest as they can, to their country,” Randy said.

On one occasion, a group of about 30 visited the bar, and after a few drinks, began singing in Italian — an unusual sight for a small town restaurant. But that’s the way they like it.

The perfect steak

So what’s the key to the perfect Open Flame steak?

Michelle and Randy Thompson said there’s just one: Take it slow.

“You can kind of set your own pace, which is nice,” Michelle said.

Randy suggested picking out your steak, putting on some seasoning and letting the combination marinate and warm up as you eat your salad.

“Let the season soak in,” Michelle said.